Christmas Trees in the Kalahari KTP May 2012*

[GavinW]

Thanks everyone for your comments!


Day 21: I don’t know why, but every time our last full day in the KTP tends to deliver:

Would today be any different?

We were packed up and ready to say goodbye to Urikaruus by 7-30.

It is always sad when a holiday starts reaching it’s climax, and today was our last full day in the park. We were leaving Urikaruus, and heading down to Twee Rivieren for our last night before heading back home tomorrow.

History had however, indicated that our last day in the park, always seemed to produce something special. It’s almost as if the Kgalagadi is saying “thanks for visiting, and look what I can still show you!” as if the ensure our return


So it was with mixed emotions that we turned left up towards Mata Mata for the last time this trip

We were soon back in the groove of spotting, and came across these locals on our way up the riverbed.

A couple of falcons,






This vulture tree





Followed by a majestic Tawny eagle



And one of the only Black Shouldered kites we saw on the trip




We went up as far as Dalkieth before turning around and going back missing the loops. It seemed as if our "last day" hopes were falling short of our expectations

We soon found these Rooi Hartebeest in the road, which were licking the minerals off the road surface,



Debs loved the little babies in the herd



A bit further on this wildebeest was seen chatting to a Fork Tailed Drongo




Just as we were reaching the southern end of the 13th Borehole loop, I noticed a couple of cars in the loop stopped on the side of the road. We had met up with them a few times over the last few days, so we knew that they were travelling together. I suggested that we go and see what, if anything, they were looking at.

Debs was not keen as she didn’t want to interfere. I went anyway, and duly asked the question…

Two lions under that bush was the reply!

[GavinW]

Lions learning the hard way

I must admit, I was quite chuffed with my decision to go and see what the others were looking at. At least we could say we had seen some lions on are last full day.


The two were chewing on something under the bush, but whatever it was, it was either pretty much finished, very small or the left over’s from someone else’s supper the previous night. In any event, it was certainly not substantial.






Quite soon after we arrived on the scene, they started moving off, in our direction.



As they got closer, we noticed that both the lions, juvenile males, appeared to be really thin, and not in the greatest of condition.



Our thoughts were that they had recently been ejected from their pride, and were now having to learn the hard way on how to kill and survive on their own.

The lions walked up towards us, crossed the road, and headed off in the opposite direction.

[GavinW]

After watching the lions move off, we continued on our way down south.

Along the way we came across this springbok, who posed nicely for us




Before we said goodbye to one of our favourite vistas in the KTP, the Auob riverbed near Urikaruus



We stopped for a short break at Kamqua before continuing.


Totally unaware that our day was about to become better,

and then better still!




Day 21 gets better!


We carried on south after our pit stop at Kamqua, and soon after Rooibrak, a car stopped on the side of the road flashed it’s lights at us. We duly stopped and had a look around.


On the far side of the riverbed, three cheetah cubs were sitting near a tree watching some springbok a bit further up the river.

We wondered as to where mommy was.

We soon found out as she approached us, whilst stalking along the road, using the sidewall for cover.





We were amazed at how she kept low, and moved along not changing her profile, with just her legs moving.

She crouched for a while in the road as she slowly moved forward

[GavinW]

Day 21 continued




Unfortunately the springbok noticed her, and with the element of surprise gone, she gave up the chase and returned to her cubs.



The four, once reunited moved along the riverbed and eventually settled down in the shade of a tree.



Knowing that she, and her cubs were hungry, we decided to stay around for a bit and see what happened.

We waited for about an hour and a quarter before she started moving again.
She again came up to the road and walked along the road, using the cars and trees on the side of the road for cover.





This time a gemsbok noticed her and it’s alarm calls soon had everyone wide awake.



The quartet then proceeded to carry on moving up the riverbed.






We thought that they would stop at the nearby Rooibrak waterhole to have a drink, so we went to the waterhole and stopped in a good position. This time we were wrong, the four cheetah walked past the waterhole and up and over a dune on the far side of the river.



We had been with them for almost three hours and were totally chuffed with the sighting.
We did need to carry on, so we set off to Twee Rivieren to go and book in to our chalet for our last night in the park.

The trip back was quiet, with this jackal the main star along the way.



We didn’t mind a bit, and got to camp by 3.30pm

[GavinW]

Day 21: a brief farewell:


As I said, we got back to camp mid afternoon, and after doing all the admin stuff, we booked into our chalet, (no 31), which is at the back, right on the edge of the camp, and fairly secluded.

(Also We think it is bat free!!)


Not wanting to miss a trick, or a second of our precious time left in the park, we were soon out on our evening drive.


We decided to drive up to Leeudril and back as we had had quite a bit of luck earlier in the trip along that stretch.

Just after Samevloeiing, we met up with SueJ, who after a long day, was heading back to camp. We stopped and chatted for a bit, and exchanged chalet numbers in the hope of getting together later. ( Sorry SueJ, the evening got a bit hectic, and I believe you went to the restaurant anyway)

After saying goodbye, we carried on, and we were not much further along the road when we spotted Hannes Lochner in his Land Rover on the Botswana side of the valley.

We knew what that meant, and we suddenly were really wide awake and alert.

[GavinW]

Day 21 gets even better still !

Hannes Lochner was looking in the wrong direction! -O
We had only gone a few hundred metres when we saw them walking along the riverbed.

Oh my hat, not one but TWO leopards! I mean really!!





The two beauties walked alongside each other before one moved off around a bit of shrubbery, and the other moved closer to the road.








After a bit that leopard too went towards the middle of the river




Probably to contemplate as to whether or not gemsbok was on the menu for supper










But then probably just to admire the passing show.



By now we were no longer the only car at the sighting, and even Hannes Lochner had returned to South Africa for the spectacle.

tbc

[GavinW]

Thanks everyone


The leopards cont…..


After a while the two leopards decided that they were going in the wrong direction, and turned around.





We were at the front of the queue of about 8 cars, so we turned around first and got back to the prime viewing spot.



What happened next is best described by these photos, as they moved together, and eventually crossed the road and headed up the side of the dune on the western side of the riverbed.










Once the leopards had disappeared, so did all the spectators. We hung around a bit longer than the rest, but without success. Eventually, due to time constraints, we returned to camp.

That evening we spent a pleasant time with initially Jannie and Vanessa, who came to say hi over a few cold drinks, and then later with Anna, who stayed for supper. (That’s if you call a veggie burger supper!!)

We discussed the days events, and eagerly arranged the next mornings planned walk!

[GavinW]

Day 22: Shivering at Samevloeiing!!

We had arranged to meet at the old reception area at some ungodly time of the morning after picking Anna up at her Kalahari house. We were going on a morning walk along with Jannie and one of his guides, Rob.

After all the admin and pleasantries were sorted we were off to Samevloeiing in an open game drive vehicle, and the temperature was minus plenty ( I was sure it was at least minus 10)

It didn’t take long for my cheeks to feel as if frost bite would have been the better option as to what I was experiencing, and holding the steel torch was a no no!!

We eventually arrived at the waterhole, and were able to get out of the truck.

Jumping up and down at least got my circulation going while we waited for it to get lighter, and for those who needed it, to have a smoke break!. ( Basically the guides!!)


After a while we set off on the walk.


Frozen fingers notwithstanding, I managed to get a few pics of the walk, on which we saw very little. These included:


Some pics of our party against the sunrise as we headed out,





The long awaited sunrise, (And some warmth!!)




I think it is out of focus due to me shivering so much

A very dead bok in a tree



And, of our vehicle when we returned after the walk.



As we were driving out Jannie pointed out some tracks on the road which had walked over our tyre tracks…


We later found out that a leopard had made a kill just after we passed by, and had the buck in a nearby tree and had watched us passing by.

You can’t be everywhere all the time.

After the walk was over, we returned to camp, packed up all our stuff, and after debating as to whether or not to go for a last drive before leaving (And deciding not to seeing as we had 1200km to travel), we said our sad farewells to all our friends in the park, and to the park itself.

[GavinW]

Christmas Trees in the Kalahari


Some people must be wondering why this trip report has been titled, “Christmas Trees in the Kalahari”

Well a friend wrote in her blog the following;


May 22: Walking With Christmas Trees

Until this morning when they left, some of my best friends were here in the Kalahari. They’re wonderful people; all super-bright and glowy and full of happy light and colour. They’re warm, comforting and homely. And I only get to see them once a year. And I spend all year looking forward to seeing them. So I guess they’re like Christmas Trees. I love Christmas Trees.
The Christmas Trees have just ended an incredible three weeks in the Kalahari. They’re living proof of the saying that “the Kalahari reveals itself only to those who seek it with a true heart”. They were truly blessed to witness some seriously kudutastic things here. And the memories and mind-blowing photos they take home with them today prove that you don’t need to spend all that money on those really, really big cameras. Buy a point ‘n shoot and get lots of chocolate and flip-flops with all that money you’ve saved. That’s what I would do.




It kinda hit a note, and we both decided that it was apt!

(A bit of self indulgence.. Sorry)

[GavinW]