Africa Wild

Last year my SO and I visited KNP for a month from mid August to mid September. The preceding few months had been difficult for us and I wanted to plan something special for SO - a surprise to end our trip.

I had in mind some sort of exclusive game drive thingy but wasn't quite sure how to set things up.

After a couple of emails I had the email contacts for the guides at Phalaborwa gate thanks to Mr Richprins and Mr Sprocky!

I made contact and was so pleasantly surprised with the enthusiasm from guides Lourens and Craig who helped put the plan in preparation.

Our last night in RSA was booked at Sefapane Lodge in Phalaborwa. I made sure we were out of the park and at the lodge by mid afternoon. As we exited I stopped at reception and casually suggested that I book a couple of seats spur of the moment on the sunset drive that night. SO thought that a grand idea.

So come about 4.30 pm we turned up and there was the game viewing vehicle waiting. Lourens whisked me into reception to take care of 'paperwork' and assured me all was in place. As we took our seats in the vehicle with Craig guiding, I gave SO the news that this would be a private drive just for us!

So we meandered off exploring the low maintenance roads and staff roads for the hour or so before dusk.

This is one little chap we sighted on our wanderings.



and this handsome individual was surveying his territory as the sun went down.



To be continued......

Craig was a great guide. He was a bit concerned when he heard we had been travelling all over southern Africa for many years; he thought he might not be able to impart much new knowledge but of course that was not true and he helped us identify a lot of trees and vegetation which we don't know much about. It was very pleasant just to chat about his job and how he came to be working in KNP.

Eventually, as they sun got low in the sky we rambled down another staff only road and pulled to a halt to be met with this view.



But we also found Lourens and his lovely lady had set up a table for two with food platters and chilled wine and amarula!



It was memorable for both of us.



Lourens and Craig and friend stayed discreetly out of the way but kept an eye out for critters. We stayed until the sun disappeared like the food and drinks. Then Lourens gently prompted us to hop back in the vehicle to continue our drive. As we moved off Craig asked if we had to be back by a certain time to which of course we replied: Definitely not! This seemed to be the answer he was hoping for and he proceeded to drive us off into the dark to look for leopards!
Stay tuned to see if we found any.......

So with our enthusiastic guide Craig, we set off in search of Leppies. We bumbled around all over the place until I was thoroughly disorientated. -O

Game was scarce but we didn't really care. Craig took us close to the location of where they conduct the bush braais as there is a female leopard often in the area. But no luck. So we continued on into the thickly vegetated area investigating the haunts of a known male who also frequents the area. No luck.

We wound our way slowly up near Sable Dam and came to a small pan filled with water. Craig and I were manning the spotlights. In unison we scanned the edges of the pan but.......... nothing. Disappointed, we both lowered our lights together back down to the side of the vehicle and in the same instant let out a stifled yelp and drew back into the vehicle. Right there, only a few feet away lay the most beautiful male leopard! We had driven right up along side him and not even seen him!
Craig and I were still stifling a few giggles at our mutual reaction and poor SO looked mystified. I quickly mouthed the words 'he's right there' pointing down at the ground on the driver's side. SO leant over and couldn't believe his eyes! It was such a wonderful sight!

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It was difficult not to dazzle him with the lights so we only took a few snaps and after a few minutes he got sick of that game and sauntered off into the bush. And with that it was time for us to mosey on back to the gate. What a great end to a great Kruger holiday.

This was our little chalet at Sefapane Lodge for our last night in RSA. Really a great place to stay and the staff were terrific.

So come with me now back to where it all started; our entry at Phalaborwa and our first camp - the serene Shimuwini.

This chap is regularly seen on the camp entry road.



Unfortunately SO was really sick with flu and a bad fever. He went to bed as soon as we arrived at camp! I sat up worrying but the Klippies and Dry Ginger Ale helped.

Next morning I let him sleep until nearly 10am upon which he woke, fever broken and feeling much better. Yay! We pushed on to Shingwedzi. I was driving and as SO was still feeling tired we didn't take many pics. That night we cranked up the braai. On went the steak and a gem squash wrapped in foil for me (vegetarian). We kicked back for a while until SO got up to check his steak. Suddenly there was an almighty explosion and after a stunned couple of seconds we grappled to understand what had happened. It was like a scene from CSI. After studying the splatter patterns closely and the crime scene it was evident that failure to put steam holes in the squash had turned it into a steam filled explosive device.

The remains of the gem squash



After a good nights sleep with SO improving all the time, we headed out next morning on the Red Rocks Loop. One of my favourite drives.


I love watching these little guys!


This pair were catching some morning rays!

That night whilst out on the stoep having a few drinks we overheard our neighbour on the phone - a fellow Aussie! He was raving about how wonderful Kruger is and how fantastic the 'set up' is and 'mate you just wouldn't believe it' . So when he finished I stuck my head around and invited him over. It was his second trip to RSA but the first to KNP. Was he impressed! A single middle aged guy having the time of his life. He had bought a wicked camera and soon informed us that on the Red Rocks loop that morning he filmed a leopard in a tree. It became apparent we had missed it.

We all had a good yarn before turning in with dreams of looking for that leopard the next morning.

We spent three nights at Shingwedzi our favourite camp. We never did find the leopard or any other cats but our sightings books shows that it wasn't quiet with lots of animals recorded. On checking out we headed to Punda Maria via Babalala picnic spot where we stopped for a coffee.

Arriving at Punda Maria was a treat as it was our first time there. Our luxury tent no 7 was lovely although I would have loved to have one with the view out over the area below camp.





We did the s99 loop that afternoon but it was fairly quiet. Next morning it was off at 6.45 am on the s60 - animals included bushbuck, hyena, warthog, grysbok and a slender mongoose. That afternoon we repeated a drive around the s99 with similar results. The next day we decided to head to Pafuri Picnic spot which we were highly anticipating as a real highlight.
It was a gorgeous drive up there in the early morning with a hyena sighted and a nyala. We were near the turn off to the picnic site from the bitumen when a leopard walked out and crossed the road in front in of us. He quickly moved off into the bush and disappeared but we were so excited. It was our very first leopard sighted in Kruger!!!!



At Pafuri Picnic spot we weren't disappointed of course. It was a beautiful morning and we cooked up a yummy breakfast and spent some time enjoying the scenery. It was very quiet and peaceful.



We enjoyed our time at Punda without the crowds. So it was a little sad to leave but we had a date with Shipandani Hide to keep.

As we arrived in the Mopani area we headed to the Mooiplaas picnic spot which I really like.



One of the attendants was helpful in pointing out this guy.


We then went to the Mooiplaas waterpoint and were really sad to see a zebbie who was missing a lower hind leg from a snare. It was a pitiful sight. We also saw a couple of big tuskers but they were too far in the distance for our feeble camera. (camera upgrade coming up!!!)

Next episode: the hide and on to Letaba...

Thanks for following along everybody! Mr Richprins what do they say? Something about just being in the right place at the right time

Having mooched about the Mopani area for a while and collected the key to Shipandani Hide we arrived at the Hide right on 'closing' time for the public but opening time for us We were lucky to have a very good night with no wind and not too cold. Soon after darkness fell we started to hear the resident hippo lurching their bodies out of the water up on the grass in front of the hide. Eventually we had to give in to the need for sleep. It was a bit spooky walking to the loo before bed and I made SO come with and stand outside.


Yep, the grey blob is one of the hippo who kept us company for a while before heading out into the bush.

Next morning a lovely 30deg day and off we headed to Letaba. For the first time we stayed in one of the budget tents which worked out great although a bit of a hike to the loo and camp kitchen.



On our next few forays we spotted a lot of the usual plains game that one sees around the Letaba area. The weather was heating up and on the 1st of September which was my birthday it got to around 44C. What to do but relax on the deck with a good cold drink and a book.

On the 2nd we decided to head to Oliphants for breakfast via the s46, s93 and s44. This was a nice sighting.



and these:



Late that afternoon, refreshed from a mid day rest we headed out onto the H9 and then onto the Shilwauri Loop (sp).

Coming back to camp in the fading light we spotted a jackal lying not far from the road. Then close to the camp intersection a hyena.



Next day we thought a skottel breakfast at the picnic site on the Giriyondo border post road might be a treat. It was a bright sunny morning and the drive there was really pleasant. Our sightings list on the way included elephant, hippo, baboon, wildbeest, tsessebe, buffalo, zebra, implala, waterbuck, steenbok, ostrich, warthog, hyena, kudu, nyala, crocodile, ground squirrel. Phew! It was a great little drive. On arriving at he picnic spot we found it deserted. We hung about looking for someone but nothing. Disappointed, we got back in the car and were driving out when a SP vehicle came flying in at the rate of knots, disgorged an attendant and then flew off towards the border post.

Another nice picnic breakfast was had - we were the only ones there and it is not the most scenic spot but worth the detour.



Tomorrows exciting episode highlights the surreal moment we sighted white pointers in Kruger......

Okay, so away we go again! Finishing our four nights at Letaba.....this is a camp I really love, it has a feel to it different to all the others and even when fairly full up I never get that claustrophobic feeling of too many people around. The afternoon after our Giriyondo picnic spot breakfast we went for a cruise to the birdhide via the main road and then the s62. We hadn't gone more than about a couple of kms on the bitumen when I saw a little car hurtling towards us with a front passenger sitting on the door sill with the upper body out the window!! I was angrily muttering something about rule breakers when it got close enough that we both saw to our astonishment that the rule breaking passenger was naked from the waist up As they went past she gave us a good shake of the chest and flashed a smile. For a second we were speechless, then I said to SO in the passenger seat with the sightings book; 'what sort of sighting do you call that?' to which he replied 'two white pointers!'

Of course lots of these guys around Letaba. (No, NO pics of the white pointers!!)


and these:



Each night at Letaba we went for a walk around the camp with a torch. Our night sightings in and outside the fence included: elephant, bushbaby, porcupine, croc, scops owl, verraux eagle owl, hippo, bats, waterbuck, gennet. We did miss the last night as a change in the weather brought VERY strong wind howling through the camp.

Next day we headed to Satara for our first stay at this camp.



The drive down was very productive with lions and jackal sighted amongst 18 animal species we recorded.





From 44C we now had a big change in weather the next morning down to 18C the next day!
It was a quiet day out on the roads. Back at camp that night we took our torch out for walkabout and saw the usual hyena patrolling the fence as well as small spotted genet, buffalo, wildebeest and a lovely african wild cat.

Next instalment: Does the famous S100 deliver????

Satara. 6 am. Cold, overcast raining. What is that about? Lucky I had packed a beanie and warm coat. The morning drive was s100, s41, Nwanetsi Picnic Site for breakfast. Hyena were spotted first up followed by the usual plains game. We were lucky that the rain had perhaps kept people away and only a few hardy others were hiring the skottels. It was our first time at this picnic site and what a scenic place it is. After a great brekkie of fried eggs, tomatoes and bacon (for SO) and good plunger coffee we headed off to the s37. I like this road. Some are getting a bit antsy driving it due the poaching activity in the area and it was quiet as far as animals went. Nevertheless we saw a secretary bird, a black backed jackal, ostrich and ground hornbill. We returned via the H1-3. Our afternoon drie to Leeubron and back was fairly quiet.

I have this lovely photo which I think is somewhere in the Satara area? Can anyone confirm?



Of course we saw waterbuck on the S100.



STILL NO CATS

In our drives around the area we saw some of these guys.



Our afternoon drive took in the H6, s41 and another try at the s100.
A variety of animals and birds including a Kori Bustard but STILL NO CATS.

That night braving the cold we cooked in our outdoor kitchen and were visited by this guy. Sorry for poor quality. He grabbed an old chop bone he found on the ground (not ours!) and galloped off! However, he totally wreaked havoc on a mite from the Yellow forum we met a couple of doors up. Jumped on the table, grabbed the steak and made off! -O
We also had a visit from the resident African Wild Cat but got no pics.



As our stay at Satara came to a close our last night involved a huge thunderstorm right overhead!
Our next stop was the ever popular Lower Sabie. The S100 had failed to deliver but we had high hopes of some kitty cats in the south of the park.

On the drive up the weather improved with the sun coming out and it was very welcome. I loved the change in vegetation. We had never been in the south of the park much before only when I had my two boys with me the year before and we stayed at Berg n Dal for a night.
Of course we had to stop at Tshokwane and try the fare. Sorry SO! -O



After a good break we carried on and were lucky enough to spot a leopard scent marking a tree close to the road. But he disappeared into the bush before the cameras came out. A little later this female seemed in search of some pride mates.



At last we arrived. Another first for us. We checked in and found our luxury safari tent which we like immediately. Sadly I hadn't been able to secure a river view one but we weren't too worried.



We decided that the next day we would take a cruise down to Crocodile Bridge. But a surprise awaited us in the afternoon........

Our first full day at Lower Sabie. We head off to Crocodile Bridge. Another first!

Like the look of this little camp. On our meandering travels there we encountered a variety of animals including slender mongoose, rhino, elephant, bushbuck amongst others. After a coffee at the camp and a rest stop we tootled back but got stuck in a traffic jam.



Those cars coming towards him kept reversing and us behind just kept creeping along. This went on for THIRTY MINUTES! -O

Eventually a huge petrol tanker coming towards him just decided to barge past. Mr Ellie didn't like that and there was head shaking and trumpeting and a little lunge at the truck as it went by. The ellie kept going his merry way for a few more minutes before finally heading off into the bush.

That afternoon the sun was out and we thought a drive to Mlondozi would be good. There wasn't much action there although we spotted a klipspringer close to the picnic area as well as the bushbuck. So we continued on the loop. Having gone a kilometre or two we saw that a car was stopped and they motioned for us to stop too.
THERE WALKING IN THE GRASS WAS A SERVAL. The first time we ever have seen one!

Okay you are saying where are the pics? Well we had a decent look but it never stopped walking and the grass was obscuring a good photo from our low car. We did take a few but they are no good. Still, we were elated!

Next morning we went on the s82, H4-2 loop. A lone male lion was the highlight.



Saw this dude who I was wary of. He seemed pretty relaxed but the secretion on his face had me a bit worried. We waited for him to move away to pass.



We set our camera trap up near the fence behind our tent that night. Sometime in the night I was woken by the unmistakeable sound of a leopard!
But against all hopes we did not capture the image on our trap. What we did capture was quite a surprise. I think we have dozens of pics of a forlorn civet walking up and down the INSIDE of the camp fence! -O (pics to come - need SO's help to find them )

Next day we headed off once again to Mlondozi but this time for breakfast. It was beautiful and sunny and there were quite a few people with the same idea. Keeping the vervets at bay was a full time job.




On one of our drives back from Mlondozi we came across these dimwits. There were about 4 bull elephants pushing over small trees and stripping the roots. It was fascinating to watch and they were close enough to observe without disturbing them.



Over the next couple of days things started to ramp up when we discovered the hyena den not far from camp and right next to the gravel road.



We also saw this guy hanging out two days in a row at the same location.



For our remaining time at LS and our adventures at Tamboti join me tomorrow.

After spending time at the hyena den previous day we decided that we would get out the gates as early as possible and head straight there. It was a good decision and we were alone for awhile before a couple of other cars showed up. It is incredible that the den is situated right next to the road. Of course the hyena are so used to the attention and totally relaxed but the little ones are very curious and come up to the cars.





Afternoon drive was the usual long list of beasties. But it wasn't til we were nearly back to camp that we came upon this.
We never really got a decent look at these guys as soon after this photo there were cars creating bedlam and we just gave up and let the idiots have their moment.





On our last night we did a night drive. There were only two other couples. One of whom were Australian (we later saw them on our flight home).
So it was a nice drive in the smaller vehicle. My list says giraffe, hippo, impies, steenbok, duiker, porcupine, small spotted genet, crocodile, lesser bush baby, civet and lion. It was quite a productive drive but freezing cold!

On reflection of our stay at Lower Sabie I am probably going to get my head taken off
We just didn't click with it and after big expectations I was disappointed. Not by the game viewing of course but I just didn't get into the feel of the place. Although the staff were pleasant we had to contact reception all four nights in a row because as soon as we turned on the hotplates we tripped the power and were in darkness. Each night some lovely guys came and 'dried out' the wiring and fiddled a bit and got things going. They said the cleaning got water leaking under the hotplates. So why not fix where the water gets in? I suggested this strongly to the girl I spoke to the third night but it fell on deaf ears. It was frustrating. In complete contrast and totally surprising I loved Skukuza when we visited twice for lunch. We walked all around admiring the gardens.
This was my favourite spot.



I am a crazy dog lady and I took lots of photos of the plaques at the pet memorial garden. We also loved the museum and I could have spent hours in the library reading room. We are going to book a few nights there next trip.

So it was that we left LS and headed off to Tamboti one of my favourites. We hadn't gone far on the H10 when there was a cat jam. Well luckily not a bad one. There was a leopard laying under a tree not far from the road with its kill in the tree.

At first we couldn't see well but then the cars moved up and we did too and had a great field of vision. When we get our 'proper' camera later this year these photos will be nice and crisp and rich! I can't wait!





We took a lovely meandering drive back down to Tamboti. Somewhere along the way we saw 14 rhino.

At Tamboti we were pleased to get tent 25 which was in an excellent spot. Previously we were in the luxury tents but this time we were slumming it. -O


Late in the afternoon we stopped in at Orpen (love this camp) at one of my favourite shops and restocked a few items. I love the music and books they have there. Last time we did that on our last trip together we saw a cheetah at the turn off to Tamboti and didn't have the camera!
This time there was no cheetah.

We stoked up the braai and very soon after darkness fell we had this beautiful visitor.



Well, that's all for now folks. But tomorrow we head back to the S100........