Africa Wild

Death - the ultimate betrayal!
August - a month of emotion and trauma and long weekends. How to cope - head for the bush.
Having booked a five day stint at Punda and an invitation to Amoli to join us - fate had different plans for the family -
Hospitalization and not knowing the problem - was our trip going to take place! A phone call soon had our dates changed and with fingers crossed that LO would not be going under the knife we hoped our trip would still happen.

Good news - problem identified - Punda here we come!
Car packed - probably overloaded - but at least I could see out the rear view mirror - spirits high - we soon realized Amoli was driving behind us. Unplanned we had met up on the highway rather than at Punda. Cheery waves and good humor all round we arrived at Kruger before you could blink an eye.
The plan was to head directly to camp - but the best laid plans of man and mouse always go astray! the dirt road turnoff was far to tempting to resist! short drive before heading to set up camp.
The computers were down - but the friendly and cheerful reception we received made booking in a pleasure.

Having decided on a spot we soon had the tents and kitchen sink unpacked only to be thwarted by a howling gale that threatened to have us airborne and sailing across the veld within moments. Not to be deterred we soon had the volatile tents under control and a fire blazing in readiness for the evening meal.
It was Lo birthday and I wanted to make it a special time for him. I call him LO but he is no youngster. 30 is a special age - and I am extremely privileged that he wants to spend time with me!
We spent a wonderful evening round the fire having sated ourselves on a dinner of roast pork belly with all the trimmings. Silence settled over the camp as the night sky stretched into the distance.
A scream rent the night air! I sat up and listened as another scream echoed through the night. Deciding I was way to comfortable, and it was way to late to get up and see what was happening I snuggled back down until the rising sun poked her fingers into the tent.
Hind sight is always 20/20 vision!

One of the many joys of sleeping in a tent is lying in the dark in the early hours of the morning listening to the day unfold around you. Slowly but surely the chirp of the early birds replace the distant call of the insects which is soon interrupted by the sounds of humans surfacing. The unmistakable zzzzzzzzzzzzt of a tent being opened, the soft whispering of people packing their cars for whatever they have planned for the day. The roar of engines as people drive to wait for the gates to be opened.

Amoli was heading for Pafuri and we whispered to each other through the tent so as not to wake my sleeping mother. Admittedly it would probably take a bomb to wake her as she is very hard of hearing! We had decided the previous night to play each moment as it came and I said to Amoli we may or may not see her in Pafuri.

Mom had fallen prior to leaving and had three broken ribs. Now 88 or 89 years young (can never remember -O ) this is not something to ignore. Having spent many hours in the car the previous day we decided to spend some time at camp and doing short drives in the immediate area to give her a break from bouncing around in a moving vehicle.

The first visitors of the morning - bar the early birds - were some crested guinea fowl - which were promptly named Greece by the boys. They were highly amused at their immaculate curled back black hair!
Not long after the next visitors to come bouncing through were the pervert - I am sorry - vervet monkeys. Although these little blighters are a pain - they certainly know how to keep their human audience captivated by their antics!

Keeping a close watch as we packed a couple of drinks into cooler bags and making sure the tents were pervert proof we set out to putter around the drives close to the camp.

The morning was starting to brighten and the Sun was nibbling away at the coolness of the earth when a jackal and an elephant appeared on the bend in the road ahead of us. Murphy's law - both were gone before we had a photo opportunity. Keeping a careful watch out we edged along the road hoping to get a picture of the two mismatched creatures - this was not to be.

The road was extremely corrugated but the banging and crashing of the car as we bounced along did not seem to impact on the various buck species that were scattered on the side of the road at regular intervals.




Some birds let out raucous warning calls and took off into the distance but many gave us a disdainful look as we bumped our way through their territory.
This was a trip of firsts and I had decided to enjoy the peace and tranquility without worrying about taking photos. I would leave my cameras in the back with the two boys and let them have fun with them. It was D's first visit to Kruger and LO's third and LO loved being given the opportunity to use my cameras.

A strange shape on the long grass attracted my attention - bang - good intentions down the drain. Slowly bouncing to a standstill I asked for my camera and managed to get a reasonable picture.

Arriving back at camp it was time for a siesta for some (even if your feet do stick out the bottom of the tent!)


and a quick trip to the waterhole for others. This time of the year the waterhole is extremely busy. The comings and goings of creatures great and small is busier than a train station - when train travel was in its heyday. Little LBJ's to the giants of Kruger came down to cool their heels and enjoy a break from the midday sun. Some approaching with more apprehension than others. Some just enjoying a run around.









It also gives us human folk the opportunity to watch the animals from the shade - rather than sitting in a hot car. When we first arrived the hide was packed - but gradually people drifted back to their accommodation and we could enjoy having nature as our only companion. Time when you don't feel guilty about doing nothing, time when you can live lost in your own thoughts without worrying about the people around you. The sun followed it's inevitable path and with the cool of evening approaching a short drive was in order before preparing the evening meal.

A number of birds and many buck species were on offer, mixed in with a few elephant and buffalo made the drive interesting and longer than we had anticipated! I

So often we are in such a hurry to get into our cars and go "hunting" we forget what staying in camp has to offer. Our tents had a beautiful view of the fence and there was a constant flow of animals making their way down to the waterhole. Birds of all shapes and sizes circled above, including a helicopter that could be heard not far in the distance.
Smaller birds bobbed around our feet tweeting away - hoping for a falling crumb or two. The pervet monkeys soon made their appearance but with most people guarding there belongings - pickings were slender and shouts soon had them scurrying across to the far side of the fence.

The fire lit and crackling away, we were soon settled down to enjoy the evening and share stories of what the day had delivered our way. With the sun hidden by the horizon and the nights sky lit by the moon and the stars and the sound and sight of the grey giants breaking down trees whilst two youngsters played without a care in the world, within touching distance, we decided to take one final walk along the fence and then call it a night and get some shut-eye.





The chirp of insects was soon at fever pitch with the haunting call of the jackal filtering through the night, at intervals, was a lullaby to lull anyone to sleep, with a final finale of the roar of lion in the distance the day was a memory and a new day had dawned.

With the new day it was time for new adventures. Cannot stay in the North without a visit to Pafuri. Breakfast ingredients packed we finally got going a tad later than anticipated as it is never easy to roust youngster from a comfortable bed when its still dark and dingy.
A slow drive and a few debates on which road to take we decided just to head in the general direction and turn when the fancy took us. A few impala and giraffe were scattered across the landscape as well as bushbuck, duiker and steenbok watched us drive past at a very sedate speed. The odd kudu looked down their noses at this roaring monster that disturbed the tranquility of the early morning.

A bush, a cross road and an elephant road block - what a way to start a day. The lone elephant was taking its time in enjoying breakfast and we were in no hurry to get past as a full day lay ahead of us. We watched this beautiful creature as it meandered across the road giving us a wonderful view of its power and size. (I far prefer seeing elephant out my rear view mirror but in some cases this is not always possible. )


Finally the road block was cleared and we were on our way once again.

Turning off to visit a waterhole we were met by an expanse of desert broken by the grassland critters making their way down to the trough. Framed by dry trees and the distant blue skies broken by hills this is the Africa of paintings and stories told across the ages. We spent a fruitful time watching the comings and goings as each species took a turn to slake their thirst. A couple of young zebra's decided to test their dominance with each other which startled the impala into a mad dash of their own. Soon peace and tranquility settled over the animals once again and as they headed for the distant hills, we headed back to the road to Pafuri.



There is not much one can say about the meandering Nyala drive. Whenever I am on this road I get lost in a fantasy world. It would not surprise me if a unicorn, escorted by some fabled bird, appeared between the trees. Reality, though, brings wonders of its own. A graceful Nyala glides across the sandy ground



followed by a flash of colour as a couple of white fronted bee eaters settle on the branches, bringing vibrant colour to the brown landscape. Brown hooded kingfishers that refused to co-operate and allow us to capture them on camera as they danced from branch to branch kept us enthralled.



The only sounds where the soft call of the birds and the occasional buzz of insects as they bumbled their way along - doing what insects do. Broken branches and trees created castles across the dry landscape. The odd pool of water gave the creatures of this magical land life giving liquid without having to risk their lives in attempting to reach the river. A hint of green shoots poked out of the seemingly dead trees and ground showing the promise of things to come once the pearl drops of rain made an appearance. Time was marching on and so must we!

Once again - thank you for sticking with us on our travels.

The enchanted forest was behind us when a strange sounds was heard. Odd - slowed down but couldn't see any strange animals around - the sound was repeated and I realised it was coming from the back seat. One of our intrepid travelers was obviously suffering from hunger pangs and as his stomach growled its disconnect I decided it was time to stop for lunch/brunch/breakfast.
We pulled into the shade of the beautiful big trees of Pafuri and unpacked the munchies. It was not long before the tempting smell of frying onions and bacon filled the surrounding country side.Sated and confronted with dirty dishes and a quietened stomach an ice cold drink to finish off with was heaven itself.
We puttered around the picnic area enjoying the chorus of the birds accompanied by the gentle rustle of the leaves as a gentle breeze drifted through the trees. This place has a very special place in my heart and I am always reluctant to get back into the car and move away from the tranquility that it offers - especially when there are no other tourist around.
Time to head for Crooks Corner.
Knowing how many little nooks and crannies there are to explore I knew it would take as some time to reach our destination.
The river was very dry but every inch of water was being utilized. Crocs - literally hundreds - lay on the banks of the river hogging the green water available to them. How they all managed to find a place in the pools is beyond me!One managed to find a place away from the rest and sunbathed - oblivious to the prying eyes from the car above.




The next stretch of water a pod of hippo were sunbathing and when a mad dash was made for the water the water was totally lost from view and was replaced by hippo backs. The call of a fish eagle followed by an answering call brought goose bumps to my flesh. The sound of Africa.



Each turn out offered some animal for us to admire. From the small squirrel to the mighty elephant was to be found. If the area was barren of animal the scenery was breathtaking.
Away from the concrete jungle - the pleasure of driving along a beautiful road accompanied by bird calls interspersed with the drone of insects cannot be beaten. It is the best melody in the world - no man made music can compare.



We were leap frogging with another couple. They were camping in Punda and we had spent time chatting in the camp and sharing our stories. If they were in a turn-out we would take the next one. It was amazing how we each saw different things. A small example -they saw elephant playing in the water but never saw the hippo - we heard the elephant but decided not to go back as elephant were a dime a dozen on this trip.

Crooks corner was a dry as the proverbial bone. Not an inch of water could be seen in any of the rivers. I don't think I have ever seen it so dry. Even without the water there were plenty of birds to be heard and seen. Bushbuck and kudu peered at us from the safety of the surrounding trees before deciding we were no threat. Time has a way of standing still but at the same time marching on. A long debate followed on whether to retrace our steps or head for the tar road. The tar road won out. This is one road I do not like - way too much like a highway! Yet this time it was not as barren of animal life as I remember from the past. Ground hornbill, baboon and various buck were seen but scattered into the undergrowth as soon as we were approached them. A lone elephant slowly made his way towards the river, stopping every so often snack off the trees in his path.

Once again a strange sound filled the car. This time it was the soft snoring of one of the passengers. The heat, good food and like any good mammal when the belly is full the eyes close and sleep takes over!

Accompanied by the gentle snoring of more than one passenger my attention was attracted by a Koribustard. Full of self importance he directed me to a parking spot and ghost like disappeared into the long grass. It soon became obvious that a round table conference was in process. A few eavesdroppers soon became bored with the proceedings and made there way into the great beyond. Youngster -as most youngsters do - found ways to amuse themselves - even if it meant mom or dad had to lend a helping hand to enable them to reach the summit of the round table.

The meeting continued but we had to make tracks for home. Elephant were plentiful. From majestic matriarchs to lone bulls littered the road and waterholes.


Time was marching on and the corrugations did not help matters in getting back to camp in a smooth and orderly fashion. Fortunately we arrived with all our teeth firmly attached even though every bone in our body had been jarred by the endless washing board road. We had a few roadblock on route as more and more elephant made their way acrosss the road for sun downers. We were more than ready for some of our own!

Another day was signed off with the setting of the sun and the rising of the braai fire. Sated and content it was time for a bit of a late night visit to the waterhole. Remember - a late night in the bush is round about 08h30.

Once again the waterhole was a hive of activity - but with a difference. The animals would not come down to drink. Tension filled the air as they tiptoed forward - then without drinking darted back into the bush. We waited to see if a predator would reveal itself - but no luck. We knew there was a leopard in the area as the startling cries I had heard on our night of arrival had been revealed by fellow campers. It had been a "double" kill. A young leopard and caught an impala and the adult had come in to finish it off. - That would teach me to be complacent and not get up to investigate sounds in the early hours of the morning - to add insult to injury - my early hours of the morning had in fact been approximately 09h30 hrs ! You win some...............................

What amazes me is how soundly a person sleeps under canvas. It would be wonderful if my bed at home was as comfortable as a thin, small mattress a few inches from the ground. Having had a comparatively long day the previous day - we decided to do a couple of short drives and spend some time in camp. The boys were on the hunt for cats - any cat - big small or medium. Thoroughly rested we set off in the general direction of Shingwedzi.

Not far from camp we stopped to watch two young elephant pitting their strength against each other.


We left them to their games and headed onward keeping a watchful eye on the long grass. We may not have found the cats but we did find some antelope that I - for one - don't often see in Kruger






Needless to say roads and time have no meaning when you putter along at snail pace - enjoying the scenery and every so often the bonus of an animal thrown into the mix! As we meandered along the dirt roads we were rewarded with owls, squirrels and the odd larger creature.

So much for our planned short trips around camp. Before we knew it we were driving through Shingwedzi's gates. A quick stop for a cold drink and as the boys had never been over the causeway we headed out in the general direction of Punda across the causeway. Unfortunately very, very dry but in the distance elephant and general game could be seen. Perverts sorry vervet monkeys gave us the beady eye as we drove past but other than that there was not much action animals wise on the drive home.
Needless to say the gentle snoring again accompanied me.I relished the moments of being alone with my thoughts even though I had three passengers in the car with me.
I often hear people say they have seen nothing on a drive. This could be my comment - but the statement would not be true. I doubt that you can drive in Kruger without seeing some form of life - whether it be a bird as common as muck or the elusive cats.

There was plenty of buck life and how can we forget the quizzical stare of the strange creature that seems to be made up of odds and ends?



Realising we were on the final leg of our trip the evening was spent trying to find accommodation close to one - any - of the gates so we would have an extra day in the park. Unfortunately nothing/nada/zilch was available but we did manage to find accommodation in Phalaborwa - which we immediately booked. This way we would at least have that extra day to find an elusive cat for the boys.

Once we had confirmed our bookings there was a spirit of rejuvenation - amazing how such a small achievement can bring so much joy. We chatted around the camp fire then Iloma and Gran hit the sack. Myself and the three boys headed for the waterhole to spend some quality time together. Bats flittered through the night sky as buffalo paddled in the mud only to be chased by a few elephant. The night sounds echoed around and I soon found my eyes closing so headed off to my tent. It was not long before I was in dreamland - reliving the magic of the past few days.

Awakening to a strange sound that in my sleep befuddled state I could not identify. It wasn't long before I realized in was the sound of raindrops on canvas. Normally I love this sound but being the day we would be packing I was not charmed to have to pack up a wet tent. My grumps didn't last long as Kruger was desperate for this life giving substance. The sun was hidden by a blanket of dark clouds as I woke the rest of the family to start packing. Total organized chaos followed. We had planned on taking a bit of time as we wanted the necessary items in easy reach for our one night stop over in Phalaborwa. Needless to say the car looked like a disaster zone with visibility in the rear view mirror at an all time low.

Being the last day we drove in a two car convoy - agreeing to only stop for special sightings. Needless to say all sightings are special and it was very much a stop start trek towards the gate. We all wanted to make the most of our last few hours and take as many turn-offs and detours as time would allow. Red Rocks was also on the wish list.

Our first comparatively lengthy stop was for two fish eagles very close to the road. Cameras clicking as we tried to get the ultimate shot. This rarely happens on overcast drizzly days but we had captured some memories.




The road had been good to us in respect of sightings - considering the weather - but still no cats. Time for a short stop and where better than on a bridge! The stop offered delights of its own and being out of the car for a leg stretch was heaven.




Heading towards red rocks we pulled into a look out and a buffalo was nervously drinking. Out the corner of my eye I caught a bright red flash. Swinging round I spotted a lioness carrying a kill. Unfortunately she disappeared from view before we could capture her for all eternity. Luckily we all had a glimpse of her - finally the boys had seen one of the elusive cats.

We then had a good laugh. As I had shot forward to try and get a better line of sight for the lioness my son clicked and got an unexpected pic of a buffalo!


Our first traffic jam! all of four cars - yet somehow they managed to block the road. As I tried to weave my way through a car coming from the opposite direction on the wrong side of the road attempted to force his way through. I had nowhere to go but it wasn't long before the road was open enough to squeeze through. The boys second cat - this time a young leopard low down in a tree. Pictures were out of the question - the one attempted came out looking like a spotted bark tree with a white paw! Once again a fleeting glimpse of a cat but again verified by all.

We bounced and juddered along the road towards the picnic spot. We did see a gnu or two and even managed a quick pic

We had traveled further than intended and times was getting dangerously short to make the gate before closing time.

Before we realised it we were at the bridge just outside Letaba. Although the boys had wanted to stop at Mopani rather than Letaba we decided that the multitude of thundering loaded down buses heading in Mopani's direction was a definite turnoff. So we all had to bide our time until we hit Letaba.

Everyone needed to have a bit of a walk about. A quick visit to the museum - a few moments to admire the refurbished elephant and we were back on the road.

The gate was in easy driving distance as long as we did not waste too much time. The roads were not exceptionally busy and a work bakkie past us - not speeding - then suddenly stopped. A car behind attempted to overtake and was waved down by the driver of the bakkie.

A road block....




Finally a good sighting of an elusive cat. Two of them strolled across the road in front of the cars. We were able to watch them until they were swallowed by the long grass.

Our final moments and a few ground hornbills said their farewells. Elephant congregated round the available watering holes as the sun sank lower and lower - as did the moods of the people in the car.

SIlence as we passed through the gate packed our cameras and said goodbye to "home"