Heat Waves and Tsetse fly*

[Moggiedog]

Having checked and double checked the boat was suitable for eleven people were were assured that it had four cabins = 8 people and three on the top deck ( not the chocolate type!) We were transported to the boat in relays. We were introduced to the skipper and crew and made ourselves comfortable as we puttered out of the harbor. We had been warned a heat wave had hit Kariba (as if we didn't know) and to make sure we drink plenty - no problems on that level - and stay out of the sun.



There were four cabins and people plonked their luggage into the cabins of their choice. Problem came in as one of the cabins was for the crew and the other cabin was more suited to hell dwelling midgets than adults. The heat was intense but a bit of a breeze was created once we hit open water.
We even had a swimming pool!

We were told it would take approximately three hours to the island that we would be docking at. Now this is Africa and you can never guarantee anything time wise in Africa. Lolling around and generally taking it easy, laughing and talking. Every one seemed to be in a good mood - except for E - who was not feeling good at all. Whether it was sea sickness or the dreaded bug we were not sure. Everyone was enjoying being comparitively cool for the first time in a long time.


The sun was starting to go down and we were looking forward to being prepared a meal - and best of all - no washing dishes. The kapenta boats could be seen bobbing along the horizon as land dwindle into nothing behind us.




The sky was looking ominous and the waves and wind were starting to build. Before long tables and chairs - with people sitting on them - were being lifted into the air - flinging the people across the deck.



Fortunately no one was hurt and in fact we were all laughing so much as we sat on the floor to prevent any possible damage to camera's or limbs.The waves were something out of a horror movie. Amazing that this did not stop people crawling to freezers to top their glasses up! And even more amazing no drinks were spilled! Deciding we should go down below the tricky task of descending the stairs started. Waiting for a lull and watching the waves a shout of "all clear" was given each time it was thought there would be a long enough calm to get down the steps.

I stood at the front of the boat as waves broke over me. The wind screamed like a thousand banshees and it tossed us around like a cork in a whirlpool. What concerned me is there were no lights on the boat and our skipper was steering through the petrified trees by torch light! All the crew were out scanning the rough troughs and mountains in front of us. It seemed like we were lost. Tension was palpable as the crew peered into the Stygian darkness ahead hoping to spot a safe haven.

People were no longer chatting and a sense of doom filled the air. Was this trip ever going to end or was it going to end in disaster!
Finally we pulled into a sheltered spot - where we were supposed to be anchoring for the night, only to find another boat had taken refuge from the storm. The skipper had no choice but to brave the waves and howling gales to find another "port in a storm". Once again land slipped away and we were hanging on to the rails for dear life as we crashed and heaved over the waves into the darkness.

Eventually the skipper guided the boat into a calm bay out of the battering of the open waters. Our short trip had taken almost seven hours. The nervous laughter and chatter soon started. A window was lost never to be seen again as other windows were cracked and broken by the vicious fingers of the storm. The chef could eventually get down to preparing and serving us an evening meal, although not much was eaten as people were exhausted, feeling sick and ready for bed. Possibly more nervous tension stirred with a bit of alcohol and blended with a touch of sea sickness more than anything else.

I can only take my hat off to the skipper. His expertise and experience had certainly been brought to the fore that night. The chef produced a five star meal out of the odds and sods we had taken aboard. He would be welcome at any top class restaurant!

[Moggiedog]

After a restless night I was up before the sun - but not wanting to wake the rest of the snoring sailors I crept around getting together my bits and pieces that seemed to have changed storage area since the previous day. It was a beautiful morning - even if the temperatures were still too high to be totally comfortable. With no generators and only the sound of nature awaking I could sit and enjoy some "me" time. The sun was peeping over the hill - reflected in all her glory on the tranquil water. With the exception of broken glass and everything being upside down there was no evidence of the violence we had experienced the night before. In fact it looked as if everyone had had a good night!



I had a quick shower before the queues started. Enjoying a cup of coffee my solitude was broken by some sleepy voices as people started to surface.
Before long the beds were being dismantled and stored for later use.

Some of the men decided to do some fishing before breakfast , others decided to take a walk. This was not such a good idea as we were anchored to a private island and theoretically we were not allowed to trespass.We were asked not to go far from the boat. It was rather interesting watching the descent from the boat as there was a rickety ladder the crew had used the night before and no stable gangplank!

A bright pink dragonfly kept me occupied as it settled on a reed for a few seconds before gliding off and flying aimlessly around only to settle back on the waving reed once again. These small creatures are painful when you are trying to get a pic!

I moved upstairs and we sat and watched elephant coming down to drink on the far bank. The men had anchored their boat and I don't think they had any idea that they had a huge croc on one side of them and on the other some hippo watching them intently. It seemed as if the fish were not biting and they soon scooted off to a different area. Bush buck, impala and warthog came down to drink in a small inlet on the far side of our safe harbor. Birds of all different types strutted through the grass or flew across the skies. There was certainly no lack of entertainment.
We heard the motor of the small boat returning and it appeared to have been a successful morning for the hardy fisherman. Someone had even caught a tiger fish - all of four inches long! This was returned to the water to grow big and strong for another fisherman.

Time for breakfast and make our way to where we were supposed to be anchored.
It was amazing to see the elephant walk from one island to the next. It looked as if they were walking on water.A dead elephant could be seen on the bank and we decided to go out later that afternoon to see if the crocs would be feeding. A few scavengers of the feathered kind were in evidence but the crocs were circling in the water.
We arrived at our "home" for the night and after a splendid lunch three of us headed out to the dead elephant. There was no action from any hungry predators but a hippo pod was very interested in our boat - too interested - so we decided discretion was the better part of valor and moved on.


The elephant were coming down to drink and we had some beautiful sightings of these majestic creatures.




All to soon we had to head for our floating home. We by-passed the boat to another inlet when my sis said "ca..an you see that" Directly in from of the boat was movement and we were heading straight at it. "Hippo' was her next nervous statement. I peered over her shoulder and before I could say anything - our skipper stated "Turtle". She was highly embarrassed - but honestly - it did look like a hippo's eyes in our path. Much laughter followed and I am sure it is a story she would hate to know was being told!



That evening we would be having a braai. Not on shore as expected but on the boat. As the sun started to droop the smell of wood smoke filled the night air. The men were out fishing again but a strong wind had come up and the little boat was being battered and bounced around by the building waves. Our harbor was as still as a millpond. It wasn't long before the chug of the motor could be heard coming into the bay. No fish from that trip!We watched as a herd of impala made their way across the grassy planes to the waters edge. In the far distance, looking like ants, a herd of elephant were marching with intent towards the water. They found a place a good distance from us so, unfortunately, we were denied a close up view of their evening antics.

The evening changing shades of sunset was magnificent. The birds swooped and flew across the water searching for their final meal of the day. The clink of glasses could be heard and laughter soon filled the air. At least we were safe from any storms brewing in the distance and everyone was in very chirpy moods.



The fresh fish was served as a snack - and it was a perfect start to a perfect meal. My eyes were closing and it looked as if the people were all set to party late into the night. I decided to sleep on a bunk behind the wheel so as not to be in the way of the people who wanted a late night. Although it wasn't much later when the beds were set up for the rest of the group. During the night I woke to a strange sound. I walked outside and looked into the water. Hundred of evil eyes were staring at me. Shaking my head in disbelief I looked again. It seemed as if there were thousands of crocodile surrounding the boat. In my sleep befuddled state - I rubbed my eyes and realised it was the moon- catching the reeds at just the right angle to appear as eyes. Having a good laugh at myself - I went back to bed. The heat seemed to intensify as the earlier breeze died and vanished into the night skies. I lay awake for some time before the breeze picked up again and I fell into a dreamless sleep.

Early the next morning myself and one other wanted to go and see if the crocodile were feeding. We had to leave for the mainland by 06h30 - so we didn't have much time.

[Moggiedog]

Once again I can only thank you for your comments and staying with me.

Just an e-mail update on the strange looking wild dog:

Thank you so much for your painted dog photos. Because of such picture we have received in the Mana area I am now raising funding for a DNA study as we are sure it is inbreeding depression which is bad news.

Please know your support is valuable and if you get any more information on Painted dogs please let us know.

Many thanks

Greg

Dr Gregory Rasmussen,
Research Director
Painted Dog Conservation
Ganda lodge, Hwange National Park,
P.O. Box 72, Dete,
Zimbabwe

[Moggiedog]

Before sunup we were on our way. A magnificent sunrise followed us across the open water.

There was no activity at the elephant and the smell was rather horrendous so we didn't sit around very long and headed back. We arrived back at the boat at people were still sleeping so we made ourselves some coffee and rusks and chatted until the morning hubbub of activity started. The generators started up and we were underway back to the mainland.
The little blue boat bobbing behind us offered an ideal perching place for some birds. Why fly when you can ride?

The kapenta boats were out in full force. We heard one of the boats had overturned in the storm but fortunately no loss of life.


This time our trip was the estimated three hours. No bad weather to slow us down. The water was choppy and the wind was keeping the worst of the heat down. Certainly a huge difference from our trip out. Time had passed so fast it was unbelievable that we were on the downward leg of our trip. Having navigated the open waters a hazy view of land shimmered in the distance. It was like looking at a picture through a dirty frame.

We arrived at out cove and the small boat was sent out to check for hazards that could do damage.


On the way in there were plenty of boats in desperate need of repair. I can only assume that without jobs - the money was not available to make money. A vicious circle!

Our goodies were packed and all that remained was to carry the stuff to the caravans. Fortunately the fridges and freezers had done the job and everything was in working order.
That afternoon we took a drive around the Kariba area. It was very sad to see the magnificent hotels falling into wrack and ruin. We spoke to the guard at one of the hotels. It was a very sorry story he had to tell. All alone never seeing any people, on a pittance for a salary but it was better than no salary. His children's school fees were higher than his earnings. It makes one realize how fortunate we are that we have the privileged of having the holidays and trips we do. His partings words ' "Perhaps one day I will be able to buy a coke again"

That evening I decided I was going to sleep with the night skies and the stars as my ceiling. The rest of the group had decided to head into town for drinks and a meal. We were very happy to have some time on our own. After dinner we heard a commotion down at the water edge.
We stumbled through the grass and stones. In the water a hippo was trying to protect her calf. She was being attacked by (apparently) the male hippo. It was as if two Titanics were thumping into each other. Unfortunately I was unable to get pictures as it was very dark and the action was fast and furious. I did not want to go back for my video camera and miss the action! Eventually the little one could be seen hidden in the bushes growing in the water. The mother came, having fought off her attacker, and took it out to deeper water. They would live to see another day.
During the night a few drops of rain plopped on my head. I could only hope the heavens would not open. I plotted my plan of action should it happen. There were a couple of places I could cower under but fortunately (for me) it remained at a few gentle drops.
Sometime during the night I felt as if I was being stared at. It took a few seconds for me to realize a huge black cat was sassing me out. He moved off into the darkness. I was just falling asleep when a crash brought me to full alert. The rubbish bin was being raided. Knowing it was too late for it to be baboon it could only be a dog - a hug dog at that. My sis called out from her Penthouse "was that a Hyena" - I laughed and reminded her we were no longer in the game park.
Next morning was border crossings again. The Zambian side was a nightmare and very costly! Finally we were all through and time had become a major problem. It was unlikely we would make the camp before dark and closing time.
The one couple was heading for Livingston - one of them did not want another experience like Mana Pools. We had been told all we would have was a long drop and a bucket shower!

[Moggiedog]

The sky was gray and the soft rains dirtied the windscreen. It was a huge relief from the heatwave we had just been through. Pushed for time we did not take many stops - thankfully Zambia does not have the scourge of the road block/toll road that Zimbabwe is so addicted to.
The parting of the ways. E & M headed for Livingstone (much to E's disappointment) and the rest of the gang headed to Kafue. The road to Kafue was a dirt road, not badly corrugated but with hidden hazards ! Speed bumps. Unmarked and invisible until your head hit the roof of the car. It didn't take long to figure out that if there was a single little building you knew there was going to be a speed hump.

What was strange was to to see a warehouse of grain in the middle of no-where.It seemed as if it was a food distribution center from the United Nations but we were not positive, but it was the only logical conclusion we could arrive at.
It was a pity we were so pushed for time as it would have been wonderful to have the opportunity to visit some of the villages and "towns" en-route.

We arrived at the gates at 5h00.

Extremely friendly staffed greeted us - but this did not help in getting a refund for the couple that had deserted us.
We were told there would be plenty of time to get to camp as long as we took the "wet season" road. These descriptions had me totally confused . In the dry season - you take the wet season road - in the wet season you take the dry season road - perhaps I am just an undercover blonde! or I am more dyslexic than I thought.
An overlander was parked outside the gates. I got chatting to the young man and he stated he was spending the night outside to save on paying the daily fee which he would have to have paid if he spent the night in the park. Not a bad idea considering costs of park fees - especially as the day was virtually done and dusted!
At the gate was a "long-drop". Curious as to what we were in for we decided to pay it a visit. OMW - a hole approximately 12 inches long and 3 inches wide in a slab of concrete! Now you men with your handy attachments - spare a thought for us ladies. We do not have a point and fire attachment.
We all had a good giggle as we debated the contortionist act that would have to be performed and the aiming skills that we would have to acquire very quickly for the next three nights!!

This is Africa and patience is one of the things you have to pack. While we waited some used the opportunity to clean the mud cakes off their vehicles!

After an eternity the paper work was finalized and we were on our way. The problem - at 05h00 we had plenty of time to make camp - after African time had taken its toll we only left the gates at almost 18h00. Pushing for time on sand roads - towing - and with comparatively inexperienced offroad drivers was mission impossible. The road is fun to drive if you have time - but definitely not if you in a hurry.
As we all know Africa does not have twilight. We have day - spectacular sunsets - darkness.
This particular afternoon was one of the most spectacular sunsets I have ever seen. Sadly taking a picture through the window of a bouncing car with tree lined roads does not work. Darkness settled over the convoy and headlights lit up a wall of grass and trees on either side of us. The donga's and ditches had to be negotiated at a sedate speed not to cause damage to man and car. or for that matter getting stuck.
The back vehicle fell further and further behind so we stopped to wait. The second vehicle headed for camp to let them know we were on our way. There was huge concern on whether we would be heavily fined for not making curfew. Our speed had dropped dramatically as our fear was having the death of nightjars, frogs or other creatures on our hands. Fortunately the rain had fizzled out and it was a beautiful clear evening.
Finally - headlights - friendly voices. We had arrived.
The decision was made that Sis and BIL I would sleep in the penthouse and the Taj Mahal would be erected the following day. My igloo would be pitched and moved the next day once we had daylight to decide on the best place to pitch our tents.
The caravans were soon parked - but then some commotion started. The jockey wheel on one had sunk so deep into the soft sand it was impossible to move the van by hand. A lot of unwanted advise was given resulting in raised voices - a parting of the ways of two of the couples. WHat transpired between them would be revealed.................
Our fire was burning brightly. Our welcome present from the camp manager and his side kick - - our field ranger.
Once again - the people are fantastic. We were told anything we needed - we just had to ask. Fresh bread - if required - would be ready with in an hour of placing our order at the lodge.
The next surprise -the ablutions ;
Bucket shower
-
long drop


NO
spotlessly clean brand new showers and flush toilets - and bonus - strip lights running off batteries. How luxurious can one get!

[Moggiedog]

What happens to a sunset when you taking it through the window of a moving car - you get wrapping paper!
or a dreadful photo

-O
Very soon the evening meal was devoured. The food was consumed faster than a swarm of locust could flatten a few corn stalks. Munchies in the car filled the hollow tooth and did stave off the major hunger pangs but did not do much to nourish and fill the stomaches. The drinks were flowing and laughter echoed around but it was to be an early late night. The general consensus was that it would be a late sleep in and if anyone got woken by the zzzzzzzzzzt of the tent opening murder would be committed. The next step - the same couple were looking for a padlock to lock my tent. I promised (if I did wake early) I would try and open my tent with no noise. Now that I would like to see done!
04h00 and ZZZZZZZZZZZZZZt rent the air. The quieter I tried to open my tent the louder it shrieked. A quick shower and time for coffee. The fire was still hot so it didn't take long for the kettle to start rocking and singing on the coals. Fortunately it was a muted hissing sound of boiling water only.

My BIL joined me and we sat in companionable silence listening to the birds bring in the day. Paradise! then again perfection does not exist. We were covered in flies! Small flies, big flies - disgusting flies. One minute we had no bugs or goggas - next a plague!
BIL went to shower and I went for a walk along the river. Fortunately at this time of the morning the Tsetse fly are still sleeping. African Jakana were strolling along the same path in front of me. Paradise fly catchers exploded between the branches. The bird life is amazing. I had not taken a camera as I wanted to enjoy the time without taking photographs. I knew I would be taking a walk later in the day and if the opportunity arose - I would take photos. A huge spider web spanned an eaten away termite heap as unsuspecting creepy crawlers got caught in its tacky fingers.
Then it sounded like world war three had started. The cicadas! I couldn't even hear myself think. I had a laugh as there was no possibility of anyone sleeping through that racket!
I headed back to camp and everyone was up having coffee and deciding on where to set up a more permanent camp. Good humored bantering started about me setting off the bush guards and waking the rest of the people.

I was feeling anti-social so grabbed my camera and headed back the way I had come.

I found a pod which I believe is a kiaat pod - but I am certainly open to correction.


The spiders nest hadn't moved either - oddly enough!


The jakana had moved deeper in the long grass towards the lily pads.


Once again the cicadas started their alarm cry which was deafening but wonderful - then the first tsetse of the morning. Time to get covered up and away from these creatures from hell.
When I arrived back - my tent had been moved - my bags packed neatly inside and the taj mahal was in place. No work for me that morning!
Time to go for a game drive.
Steady (our camp manager) was chatting to us and telling us the best places to go. We were hoping for black cheeked lovebirds. They had been seen but there were not many as yet. Wild dog and lion had been seen about 5 kilometers from our camp.



I know I may have mentioned tsetse fly before - and I may mention them again - but we could not even open our windows. The car was covered in them. Open the window a crack and you would have more than 30 of the things. Fortunately I had had practice in Mana so I was almost an expert at getting rid of them. We had been told to drive with a bucket of burning elephant dung attached to the back of the car. They even had buckets for us! Way too afraid of starting a fire - although elephant dung is inclined to smolder rather than burn we did our travels with modern day pesticides.
There were plenty of various buck to be seen - but taking pictures was just not on. Managed a few through the closed window and that was it. A first for me were the defassa waterbuck. I would have love a few pics but they were not close enough to take through the window.

A sable made a brief appearance before disappearing as if the hounds of hell were after him.

Many of the birds we could not identify nor could we find them in our bird books. We needed to lay our hands on a Zambian bird book! As if there are shopping centers to just pop in and buy!
At least we knew what these were! We counted 12 in the one tree.


Back at camp for lunch. Time for an afternoon shuteye. While the rest of the people settled in for a nap I again went down to the river to enjoy the view. This time I was prepared for the miniature devil birds!


The sky was getting darker and darker, A drop of rain followed by aloud clap of thunder as lightening split the sky. Only just managed a nose dive into my tent when the heavens opened her floodgates.

[Moggiedog]

The rain pelted down and soon it was hail stones playing a tune on the canvas. I had a horrible though I had left my camera on the table outside. - Panic mode - too late if I had the damage would have been done. Finally the rain eased and I shot out to the car - which fortunately was unlocked. Safe and sound on the backseat was my camera - relief! Then the drumming of the rain on a roof started again. Making a mad dash I joined the rest of the crew under the caravan awning. It was soon apparent a lot of heart/body warming drinks had been imbibed.
The noise levels was rising. Uninhibited talk was flowing.
Stuck in a rooftop tent in the next camp sight was a young couple. I braved the weather to tell them to come and join the party.

They were a Dutch couple who come to Africa as often as possible. They soon were part of the group and enjoying the party as much as everyone else. Under the cover was pretty crowded - and with preparing food in between the drinking it was a lot like riding bumper cars.
My Bil and Sis surfaced from their tent and joined us - they drove the 10 meters!

This is not as lazy as it sounds - we wanted to pull our awning out to make a larger party area. Needless to say as we were putting up the shelter the other awning showered us with buckets of water. Down our necks - bang - rain suites useless as we were more wet under them than on the outside.
Sis was refusing to get out the car. She is definitely related to the warthog family - and only comes out when she can see her shadow. As the afternoon progressed it became obvious some people were feeling the affects of the weather and the alcohol

The rain eventually stopped and a watery sun made her appearance. The only tent on an island was mine. Thank goodness it had been moved otherwise it would have been under water.

Original position of tent -

Not long after the rain stopped Steady made his way down to see if all was in order. He managed to get a fire going and before long we were all sitting around enjoying a delicious paella. Steady and his side kick joined us for the meal but had to get back to the lodge for some clean up operations.
This was the first night we had moths. I am sure they were attracted to the OB's. It started with one- then two - then three - then too many to count!



That night some very strange conversations took place in different caravans. One of the conversations was
" I am the only Ahole who is keeping the jack rabbits away" - now this had me totally puzzled and I never did find out why this statement was made.

Early the next morning after coffee one of the group left. They had decided the day before - enough was enough. Now we were 7. Admittedly they had just come back from a six week stint in Europe, spent a few days preparing their van for this trip and home was calling. They gave me all their ice which was great as we now had enough to see us through until we arrived back in some form of civilization.

Once we waved them farewell we went down to the lodge for morning tea. A beautiful lodge with plenty of bird life to entertain us. However we wanted to do a drive so we returned to camp, armed ourselves with pesticide and all the paraphernalia we need for the tsetse fly war and headed out for a drive. This time we had the other vehicles with us. At the half way mark one returned to camp the other staid with us. It was a long drive but certainly worth it.

Once again a lot of general game was seen. The scenery is spectacular and it is just so unfortunate you cannot get pictures. We had been out for a good few hours when a pit stop was desperately needed. A plan was devised and it went something like this:

Sis -"You ready?"
Me - "yes"
Sis - "on the count of three"
me - K

On the count of three we each opened our doors a crack and then the psshhhhhhhhhhht as the cracks were sprayed with insecticide.

Two bodies hit the road.
Sis - "eyes" closed"
me- "Yes"

Psssshhhhhhhhhhhhhhhht as we sprayed each other! Probably not the best thing to do but it worked.
Procedure in reverse as we jumped back in the car.
What BIL thought of these antics I have no idea. I am only extremely grateful that no one had a camera or a video camera handy.

Driving was a lot more hazardous than we expected. Some innocuous looking mud was worse than quicksand. We to-and-frowed through the first batch. The second lot there was not a snowballs hope in hell of getting through. The problem was in every direction it was mud, mud and more mud. Bil took a walk and eventually we managed to find a way round the mud. Dodging trees and mud holes. I was very happy we did not have to retrace our steps!


Back at camp there was some heavy debate about the roads. The concern - the skies were darkening once again - and if we were hit by another storm the drivers were concerned we would not be able to get out. A decision was taken to leave a day early. I was not enthralled but I had no say in the matter.

Later that afternoon we watched a bunch of termites leaving the nest. The ants were marching all round - and they were huge!

A big beetle watched from his lofty perch on a branch above them.


There was no hurry to pack up as it was not that long a drive to Livingstone so the evening was spent in good cheer round the fire. Our last evening in Kafue.

The next morning was one of the most beautiful mornings we had had. The mist stretched across the river in a rainbow of colours. I attempted to capture it on camera but it is one of those scenes that reality cannot be immortalized.


We were all packed and ready to leave a lot earlier than expected. We said our goodbyes to Steady and partner and turned our backs on the camp sight.




Next stop Livingston.

[Moggiedog]

The drive to Livingstone was uneventful. We had enough time to stop on the side of the road for lunch. Only having three vehicles also cut down on traveling time. My mom - having been born in Livingstone asked for lots of pictures. I doubt she would remember too much as she had left their over 80 years ago – and places have a way of changing. I am not sure if the wheel had been invented when she lived there!

This was the one leg of the journey I could do without. Civilization. Any town close to Mosi-oa-Tunya is a tourist trap. Everything overpriced to extort dollars from the tourists. Two nights and then we would be on our way again. I still think a lot of the decision to leave Kafue was because the rugby was being televised and we had some avid shark supporters in the group.
It was strange to have traffic lights and stops streets. Many days had passed since we had any form of traffic control except for the condition of the road you were driving.

The main road is not very different from any other road in an African town – just a lot bigger. Chain stores – wow – shoppers delight. The streets were busy as people hustled about doing there shopping for the weekend. Once leaving the main road the buildings deteriorated and more road side traders were in evidence.
Arriving at our campsite did nothing to make me feel any different about the next two nights.
Bil and sis went to book us in and I waited at the car.
A typical tourist camp site with small camps on top of each other.

It was very pretty with lots of grass and gardens. They even had a pole growing hair!


Camp was soon set up and it was time to have a few drinks and laze around the pool.
In one way it was probably just as well we left Kafue a day early as the rest of the group had a lot of activities planned and at least they now had a full day to fit everything in. That evening two of the group went on a "booze cruise" while the rest of us sat around the fire discussing the activities for the next day. Four of the group were doing a helicopter flip over the falls and thereafter visiting the falls on foot.
It would have been wonderful to do a "flight of angels" - but being on a budget - I could not justify spending that type of money for 14 minutes! Not when I had done it before.
My sis and bil had been given a flight as a thank you present for all their help on the trip.
Early the following morning off the group went. The rest of us sat drinking coffee and making breakfast.
When sis got back she told me she had no idea what her photo's would be like as she had held the camera out and just snapped away. She was beaming from ear to ear. Both of us have a love of flying and she had done her PPL many years ago and this was an opportunity for her to get up in the air.
(photos posted with her permission)




The falls were very low and a lot more rock formations and landscaping could be seen. Zim was desperate for the rains.

The mighty Zambezi was almost a trickle compared to the last time I had been there- admittedly was many years ago!


Breakfast polished off we headed into the older part of town to take pics for mother. Some of the old building and houses must have been spectacular in their hey day.



The trees in their vivid orangy red outfits called out to be noticed and admired.

[Moggiedog]

The next item on our agenda was to see exactly how far the border was from camp. There was a welcoming committee at the entrance to the border.

It is a beautiful drive and some wonderful "chill rooms" along the way.

Time to head back to the way we had come. Back at camp it was once again time to laze around the pool and enjoy just doing nothing. I headed back to my tent and an Elephant was walking down the road. There was a fence between us - but I was rather taken aback as I did not realize the animals came out in that area. I stood and chatted to him for a while. I asked one of the workers is if it was perhaps one of the elephant used for the elephant safari's'. It wasn't, it was a wild elephant. He was very placid and was very happy standing against the fence with me inches away from him. It was almost as if he was very interested in what I had to say! After a lengthy conversation, he turned away and was soon gone from sight.
The woman had decided they would be going on a dinner cruise when the men went to watch the rugby. I had no interest in going and told them as much. I would not have minded if the boat did not just travel a few meters down the river and stop for a time then come back. My last booze cruise down the Zambezi had been on a raft made out of 44 gallon drums and was incredible. Much more to my liking than a fancy white boat. The end of the day and none of the ladies went - they joined the men in front of the TV set.
E and I sat outside enjoying the sunset and sun downers. Movement caught our eye and we moved up onto the deck of the hotel. A herd of elephant were swimming across the river. Hanging on to each other - some of them climbing on top of the one in front if the water got deep. They were a long distance away and I was not going to run back to my tent for a camera.
I made my way back to the tent and was in bed by the time the rest of them arrived back. The initial plan had been to go into town for dinner - but this was not to be. Even if they had gone I had no intention of getting up and going out.
Next morning packed and ready to hit the road to be at the border as soon as they opened, our plans were dashed. Another pap wheel. This was a bad luck trip for P & N when it came to springs and tires. Time for the men to do some work again.
It was one of the strangest things I have ever seen. A sharp stone had penetrated between the treads - but when any attempt was mad to pull it out - it crumbled.A simple task became rather a frustrating task.
Once again E was in the thick of things. The other guys asked him to listen for escaping air. E bent down and immediately he had two fingers stuck in his ear to stop the air passing right through..........


E was leaving us at this point to continue his holiday pack backing through Namibia and eventually up through South Africa to Mozambique. Hugs and goodbyes behind us we were
finally on the road. The border was a breeze and within a very short time we were at Vic Falls. Once again Sis, BIL and I did not go into the falls instead we did a trip down memory lane - into the town of Victoria Falls. The changes are beyond belief. Gone are the days of walking through bush paths from the hotel to the falls. The commercialization of the entrance to the falls is beyond recognition. Wall to wall curio stalls with people mobbing you trying to sell the goods. Another tourist trap! I did find a beautiful walking stick depicting Nyaminyami. It was beautifully carved and the intricacy of the design was astounding.
Promoting their cd

The entrance gate


Once thing about travelling in Zim - you always know what is available:


We made our way towards town to refuel. There is a saying - The grass is green on the other side...- In this case the grass was greener in the middle


Hwange - our last stop before heading back to South AFrica.


Heat waves and tsetse fly were behind us - ahead of us - the unexpected and more.



Note:
if anyone doesn't know the myth of Nyaminyami or would like to refresh their memories - here is a link should you be interested)
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_legend_of_Nyaminyami
http://www.victoriafalls-guide.net/afri ... ology.html

[Moggiedog]

One thing about having others to do the paper work - you can do some exploring alone. Not that you had to go very far to see something. The birdbath and a leaking tap was a big enough attraction to bring feathered friends to you - all you had to do was sit and enjoy.
As one flew off the next would arrive - some times more than one at a time
Some preferred being on the higher levels whilst others far preferred to scratch around on the ground.


We had booked into Robins camp - but there seemed to have been a bit of a mix up in the bookings. We were told we were staying at main camp. This was not a major problem as it saved us an additional 140 kilometer drive.
It did not take long to set up camp and have lunch. Time for an afternoon drive. What saddened me was how dry the park was.The brittle grey trees without any sign of greenery had a beauty of its own but did not bode well for the animals. We drove for a long time without seeing any signs of animal life. This was not an issue as it was a beautiful drive.
We headed for the water holes as with the drought the animals would be congregating near water. A inquisitive Kudu stared at us as we invaded his territory. ANother sad aspect was the number of dead elephant that littered the terrain.

Having taken the scenic route, by the time we got to the large waterhole we did not have time to sit for too long. The BBC was at the waterhole as they were out filming a pride of lion that have specialized in hunting elephant. They were set up to spend the night on the viewing platform. Off in the distance was an elephant carcasses with a few scavengers having a snack.
The waterhole was busier than rush hour traffic in Johannesburg! As one herd of elephant arrive - another herd left.
Hwange not having any rivers running through it all the water is supplied by pumps from underground streams. Without this intervention these animals would have a torrid time. The area around the waterhole was like a desert. The animals had to march a long distance after drinking to find food.


We made the most of the short time we had before heading for camp. We cut it rather fine and managed to make the gates with a minute to spare.
The impala and a few warthog wandered through the camp and as the sun sunk lower and lower the call of hyena and lion filled the night skies.
The braai fire was lit and we were joined by a ranger wanting to know if we wanted to do a night drive. The following night - maybe - but all of us had had enough time in the car for one day. An early night was in order and an early start to the following day. He mentioned that there were over fifteen thousand elephant in the park and it was way overstocked. Food was at a premium for these creatures.

First light and we were ready to go.
Heading into the game area brought back memories of years gone by. Filling in the book and advising which route we would be taking.

Although the book was a slip of paper! It is a hard life for these people - especially as they do not have pens to do the paper work. Fortunately we had taken a lot of pens up with us as we were aware of the shortage of pens in both Zambia and ZImbabwe. They are wonderful handouts to give to the children that so desperately want an education but finances makes it very difficult for them.

We headed out towards Platform 1. Once again there were crowds and crowds of elephant.



We spent a few hours watching them - then headed off to see more of the park.
A jackal turned and dashed into the bush at our approach and was hidden from view within seconds.


Another smaller waterhole once again filled by elephant.

At least this one had a tree offering shade across the water. The amount of little elephant was amazing. Almost every herd had a string of little ones attached. There were many small elephant alone in the bush. Many times a little one would turn and hide in the bush as we drove past. We would look around and there would not be an adult elephant in sight.
I have no idea why these youngster would be on their own. There were enough herds around and these youngster were far too young not to be with one of the herd. Normally we saw these small ones a long way from the closest water hole - although in elephant terms not an impossible walk.