Etosha - There are no elephants in Etosha! *

[Moggiedog]

JoeKing can use a normal sedan vehicle. The roads are good and there were no places we went that we need any high clearance or 4 wheel drive.

[Moggiedog]

Joeking - Etosha is stunning. I want to go back in the dry season - but I believe it is very "overpopulated" at that time of the year. The advantage is the animals do come to the water holes and you see a lot more - or so I have been told. In the wet season it is very quiet people wise. The one night there were only 13 people in the camp. I think the most people we ever had overnight in the camps were roughly 40 - and that may even be a lot. I also noticed how polite people are - when we stopped - no one came close but stopped a good way away from us. I don't think I saw a single car speeding - admittedly the speed limits are a lot higher than Kruger but the roads are a lot wider as well.
Start making your plans - just a long way to drive and not the cheapest place to stay. There are places you can stay outside and go in daily - but I (for one) far rather be inside than out.
I never wanted to go as I had been told it had been over commercialized. Yes - but only the camps. Toilet facilities available half way between each camp are good old fashioned "long drops" - but clean and well maintained. The picnic spot very wild and woolly - no shops or modern conveniences - a joy to sit and have lunch/brunch or a leg stretch.

[PRWIN]

moggiedog

We where there in the height of the world cup with the camp sites full and I must say we never ever came upon a traffic jam. On a couple of occasions we had a sighting to our selves. Only once did we see people doing something illegal and that was sorted out promptly by the rangers when people went off road at a cheetah sighting. 5 minutes after reporting it they went out to investigate and at water holes they where present and if some one got half out there car, they where sorted out on the spot.

Only a pleasure to have been there and like you say no one encroached on a sighting. It was great

Must say there is a major difference in the summer than in winter, every thing looks nice.

Great shots keep them coming

[Bushveld Jock]

moggiedog,

I noted that your first camp was Halali. I hope you did not miss out on Namutoni because this camp actually has the best camping site and not as large as Halali. Our trip was from Namutoni to Ngepi in 1 day. We thought its not that far and did some shopping in Tsumeb and Wimpey Breakfast. In the end we arrive at 5 pm NAM time at Ngepi, which suddenly changed to Ngepi time 6 pm.

I see your trip also took some time and one easily misjudge one self measuring distance to traveling in SA.

Love your summer pics with tall grass and much more green than the normal white. You're very lucky to spot a cheetah in such long grass. Did you drive to Goas water hole as well? One of the good once to see cats and rhino. Three times in a row we saw a leopard cub and mom about 3 km before the turn-off to Goas. One one day the cub walked towards the car and decided to rest in the shade of the car. On the other forum this cub is my avatar. Just wondered if you did see them as well about 9 months after our visit. I've got sort of attached to this guy. :D

[Moggiedog]

BJ unfortunately we did not see any leopard. We did meet people who had seen two leopard cross the road ten minutes before we got to the same spot - but that is the luck of the moment. Yes - we did stay at Namutoni and had the wonderful experience of meeting Bloody Sunday - the camp manager. Will tell more towards the end of my TR.

[Moggiedog]

One thing about being in Etosha during the wet season - each turn you take could bring you across a waterhole - even if it is in the middle of the road. \
Even the parking area for the pan can be hazardous to your health. You don't expect thick mud on one side and "elephant skin" terrain on the other side of the fence



Desolate - but beauty in the desolation



Having left the pan the car needed a thorough check. Fortunately this small creature was happy to give the vehicle a a clean bill of health and we were confident we could carry on with our explorations with no concerns.

[Peter Betts]

Unlike the Kalagadi Park with its overcrowded wrecked roads Joekin you can go in a Mini ..Namibia keeps its rough roads in good nick. I have been to Etosha about 20 times mainly in Jul / Aug which does mean it is quite full ..I disagree that Namutoni is the best Camping camp...Very crowded with huge overland trucks and small and the camp waterhole is useless and a dove is probably going to be your best sighting... The Namutoni area is however fantasic with 2 of the best waterholes in the Park Chudop, & Klein Namutoni close by and Dik Dik Drive is superb... Okakeujo is the best camping camp but the trick there is NOT to camp in designated campsites crowded around the overused ablution blocks but to go far away to the fence on your own and have mating lions all night just over the fence like we had... It's a long walk to the ablutions and tap from there but we were fully self sufficient then and showered at my 4x4 trailer and used the swimming pool loo so never had to compete in the run down crowded out ablutions

[Peter Betts]

We get around the meat problem by using 'African' logic..We get our meat from my Brother in Laws Free State Bonsmara farm and have it pre vacuum Packed and Frozen..Thats the Secret VACUUM Packed and frozen..Then we go right through Botswana from Gabs to Kasane and through all the check points..I just have a pack of lexingtons and give out a few cigs at each stop and off we go..They were very sticky at the Ngoma Bridge Namibian side into Caprivi near Katima and wanted to confiscate all our 4 weeks supply of frozen meat but you must take them on as all they want isa big feast after you leave..So I asked my then 13 yr old son Robert to get on the Landy Roof Rack and remove a Gerry can of Diesel as I gota knife out to pretend to open up all the packs to pretend to flood all the meat with diesel making it unfit for human consumption..when they saw their 'Free' lunch about to be destroyed they mumbled to each other and let us go and I named dropped a fictitious name and they asked me who that was ..I replied 'Godfrey is the Director of Vetinary Serviices in Windhoek and he isa good friend and told me last week that it must be vacuum packed and Frozen which this is so you want me to contact him now?? ' Big eyes let us through!! dont let these guys get to you. At the Rundu Grootfontein gate we decided to avoid the hassles and 10 kms before it came up we took all the renmaining meat out of the freezer and put the vacuum packed what was left packs from our Tiger Fishing on the Zambezi section of our holiday and put them in the trailer drawers under towels etc..They stopped us and it was close to lunch and the little fire was going but they needed meat so They asked us to open the Freezer..Just water Bottles..'Where's your Meat?' ..I replied..Finished..buying in Tsumeb for Etosha" ..On our way..5kms later get out open the drawers in the trailer and take out the meat and back in the freezer..done and dusted..This is Africa ..play the system with NO BRIBES..stick up for your rights

[Moggiedog]

Peter - I agree with you. To date in all my trips through Botswana and Namibia they have never found my freezer!! When asked if I have a freezer or cooler box I say yes. They open the back of the bakkie and voila - no meat to be found as all that is in the back is a cooler box normally filled with ice and colddrinks vegies etc. the only time the freezer goes on the back is if there are more than two of us in the vehicle - which is so seldom it is not worth talking about. I always vacuum pack and freeze before I go. What really bugs me is that the milk, cheese, butter and anything else can be confiscated - depending on the whims of whoever is on duty. You never know what will be taken - depends on the time of day and who is on duty. Cigarettes always a good eye closer at certain points. If anything does get taken - I do pour petrol over it a set it a light. It slays me to do this - but I will not feed corrupt border officials. Admittedly this last trip there was an outbreak of foot and mouth so they were being extra strict coming back - and I can understand that. I just feel there is a sad lack of training and understanding of the laws - particularly in Botswana.
Roof top tent and pillow cases with 2 pillows are also a good place to 'smuggle" across the border. I will not divulge where I hide the R100.00 notes -O -O One day i will probably be arrested - but will cross that bridge when it happens.
Strangely enough we have never had problems at the Zimbabwe, Mozambique, Swaziland or Lesotho borders - but then again i can act very dumb - which of course the border officials love in a woman. I have talked my way out many a situation by being stupid! My sister always says she can see i kissed the blarney stone and if ever they have problems at the border she is always very happy when I am with them as she states I have the gift of the gab when it comes to speaking to these people. :oops:
I see your good friend is Godfrey - mine is Johannes in the vet department in Botswana -O -O

[Bushveld Jock]

Peter when I refer to Namutoni as the best campsites I only look at the camping area. Its shaded and at least there is some grass. We found Okaukuejo to be the best camp animal wise and agree with you on the camp water hole to be disappointing compare to the exitement you will find at Okaukuejo. We were also lucky with lions walking along the fence and drinking at the water hole during the night at Okaukuejo. The overlanders is normally not a problem for me and found at both camp, but during school holidays its very grouded with Saffies.

During our first visit we did not like Halali too much, but last year we wanted to stay longer. I will never be able to exclude any camp on a trip and each of them have some perks.