Central Kalahari & Okavango Delta, July 2013 *

iNdlovu
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Re: Central Kalahari & Okavango Delta, July 2013

Post by iNdlovu »

There was no attempt at co-ordinating the dress for the evening, it just happened that half the group turned out appropriately. These guys all have their branches supporting Timbi Fridays, an indication of how the word is spreading slowly - slowly
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And look who greets us at the edge of camp early this morning
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Today passes much the same as the others, but there is a knowledge that this is our last day in the CKGR, slowly, almost sadly, we gradually start tidying things up and putting away unneeded items in preparation for the early start tomorrow morning. Although the distance to be covered is only just over 400 k's, the first leg to the gate and then to the tar will be slow owing to the deep sand.
We go and check out a few of the other campsites within the Sunday pan vicinity ( a total of 4), they are all superb and one would be hard pressed to make a choice between any of them. The others are all empty so we don't feel as if we're intruding on anyone. The others are a bit closer to each other (2 or 3 k's apart) with ours being all on its own on the other side of the pan.

For those wanting to know what the camps consist of, here is a pic
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On the left is a shower cubicle, complete with bucket on a rope, but you use whatever water you have carried in and on the right is quite a decent longdrop. That's it. We used my shower cubicle, simply because I have a water heating system in the Landy that pumps water from the one water tank, through the heating system, into the shower and no need for a cold shower.
Rough it?......what for when you have the right equipment.
So tonight's supper is Ox tail pootjie followed by a well laced brandy trifle. There were even a few veggies on offer, but I noticed they went largely untouched. A reasonably quiet and early night tonight, I will give the kettle call early in the morning.

The weather has turned, there is a biting, cold wind howling from the northeast, dust and sand blowing everywhere as the sun breaks the horizon. The guys all dress warmly and scurry about, braking camp and loading the vehicles. having done a lot of the prep work the night before, we are soon ready to hit the trail. Once again in convoy we head across the vast pan, but today it is difficult to pick out the trail in the blowing sand, speeds are very low. We must keep on our toes, it is impossible to get forewarning of the soft patches, the only indication is when you're already in it, so gearing is chosen to have as much power in reserve as possible.
After what seems like for ever, the gate looms out of the sand and dust. We stop to discard our full garbage bags in the big trailer provided for this purpose and proceed to check out. Formalities concluded we head back to the vehicles. Ryan, pulling the heavy Conqueror trailer points out to me that the trailer brakes are smoking, he is sure he disengaged them, but the lever is up, so maybe he neglected to do so. We decide to send the Pajero out in front, the Fortuner with trailer in the middle and the Landy in the rear just in case there's an issue. We have the rough 45 k's to do to get to the tar. Things are going well, I hang back a few 100 meters to stay out of the dust when suddenly coming around a bend we find the trailer leaning to one side and Ryan running down the track after his wheel.
The heat from the cooking brakes had burned the grease out of the bearings and the the whole wheel assembly including break drums had disintegrated. This in the middle of nowhere. I have always had the philosophy that when something goes wrong in the bush, you sit down, take out a beer and relax. Climbing headlong into the problem so often results in the wrong moves. During this time we also established what had caused the problem. The emergency cable that activates the brakes in the event of the trailer coming unhitched was too short and with the up and down flexing between the car & the trailer on the bad road, the cable had step by step engaged the brake. The extra drag was put down as being from soft sand conditions.
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Ok so here we are we need 4 new sets of barings to get the trailer mobile, we don't have any spares. The closest place we can get help from is 400 kilometers away. Nothing to do but get the trailer on the level, prop it up with logs using the Landy's high lift jack and leave the trailer exactly where it is. I do a U turn and head back to the park gate to tell them of our problem and that we would hopefully return tomorrow to fix things and recover the trailer. In the flick of an eye, they offer to keep an eye on it during the day and night. Awesome people, I doubt we would have got a similar offer here.
Back to the scene, we put the finishing touches to the log pile and hit the road to Maun.
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This excitement is too much for some and apparently all the vehicles were reasonably quiet on the boring drive to Maun
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Man was placed in charge and given the duty of caring for all creation, are we doing it?
iNdlovu
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Re: Central Kalahari & Okavango Delta, July 2013

Post by iNdlovu »

Thanks Dewi & nan. Ja, a trip like this in these conditions is bound to produce a hickup or two. Naturally Ryan was very worried about leaving his loaded trailer on the side of the track, but if it has to happen, Bots is probably the safest place to be.

We pulled into the outskirts of Maun at about 15:00. The first stop was at a garage for me to buy a packet of smokes, 2 days without, a bigger problem than the trailer. :shock: Suitably relaxed after double clutching two or three we headed for an old buddies workshop. Louw, who owns Delta 4X4 had assisted me previously and if any one could get the trailer mobile again it would be him. No sooner had we told our tale of woe when he swung into action, phoning all over Maun to locate bearings. Nobody had the correct ones, but he did manage to locate some that would suffice in getting the trailer to Maun.
We made arrangements to meet him at the Engen garage at first light the next morning and headed directly to our base for the next two nights in Maun....Audi Camp.
I always use this place when I am in Maun and have never been disappointed. They know me well and I always get a wonderful welcome back here.
We had booked to stay in their twin bedded permanent tents for two nights so that we could get some laundry done, shower, and shower again and generally partake in some R&R. Just as well considering the problem with the trailer.
Accommodation on offer at Audi is camping, permanent safari tents complete with beds and clean linen, Chalets or a 10 bed house.
On arrival we fell out of the vehicles and stumbled to the bar, in a rush to wash the Kalahari dust from our throats.
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The shooters menu was attacked with glee by the members of the playpen, whilst us older wiser ones hit the showers after two cold beers. Suitably refreshed we joined the youngsters back at the bar and eventually managed to prize them away for a superb supper in the restaurant.
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One of the more dangerous items on the shooter menu, a Black Mamba ( Stroh Rum, Zambuka (black or white) and Frangelica) and notice, they don't come in shot glasses.
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Tomorrow it's up again early to meet Louw in an attempt to recover the trailer, what a pleasure to climb in between clean sheets on a bed.


Man was placed in charge and given the duty of caring for all creation, are we doing it?
iNdlovu
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Re: Central Kalahari & Okavango Delta, July 2013

Post by iNdlovu »

Hi Sharifa, good to have you on board. Bots is certainly one of my favorite parts of the world.

So, we're up early to meet Louw at the garage, still dark outside, but there is a round trip of almost 700 k's to do today :shock: :shock:
Louw is waiting with one of his young mechanics and says there is no need for all of us to come along.Ryan jumps into Louws Land Cruiser and the 3 of them take off. "I'll phone when we get back" yells Ryan. Nothing for us to do but head back to Audi Camp and see if the restaurant is open for breakfast.

Today was always going to be the day that we sorted all our equipment, re-packing the vehicles with the stuff from the Kalahari and taking out the smaller, lighter stuff we need for the Delta. Then we need to get into Maun to re-supply. Only one meal of meat as there are no fridges out there, the rest being dried, tinned or packaged food. A bag of potatoes will come in handy as well. Beers? no space and no ice, but we do have boxes of wine and lots of whiskey. The water is not an issue, there is lots of it and very drinkable. The bottles of whiskey and brandy are a problem though, strictly from a space point of view, but a plan can always be made. A few empty wine bags get rinsed and then with the aid of the hose from the air pump which we use as a funnel, we fill the papsaks through their tap. Ahaaa, perfect.
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Our kit is getting nicely sorted, but it is a big discussion on leaving non essential stuff behind
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As you can imagine, there is no point in leaving beers behind so we work hard at reducing stock and before we know it Ryan phones to say they are back in Maun. They got to the trailer, found a ranger standing guard over it, cleaned everything up put on the new bearings and drove carefully back to Maun. Louw is going to keep the trailer at his workshop, have the correct bearings flown in and fix it properly whilst we are in the Delta. He's a good man is Louw.

Ryan grabs a shower and we head for the pub to reduce their beer stocks and have another supper in the restaurant. Tomorrow we head for the waters edge at 07:00. Oh and by the way, each papsak holds three and a half bottles of whiskey. \O


Man was placed in charge and given the duty of caring for all creation, are we doing it?
iNdlovu
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Re: Central Kalahari & Okavango Delta, July 2013

Post by iNdlovu »

This is becoming a habit. I wake up and lie quietly waiting to hear someone else get up.....nothing, not a sound. Oh well it's up to me again. Kettle in hand and a 5 pound hammer, I stick my head out of the tent and very soon, people are running. Oh ja, the kettle has to be binned. ;-)
A quick shower and coffee and we're ready for the Audi Camp truck to pick us and our luggage up to head for the delta. Our own vehicles, we leave at Audi camp secure in their compound.
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The trip takes us about 25 k's north where we turn off onto the sand track, having to cross wobbly wooden bridges a few times
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After about an hour and a half we start seeing larger expanses of water, indicating that we're getting close
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And then the final buffalo/vetinary fence and we arrive at Worm's taxi rank.
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Relax RP, these young ladies are not with us. They are an Aussie school tour group coming back from their one night in the Delta. They'll catch the truck we arrived on back to Audi camp


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iNdlovu
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Re: Central Kalahari & Okavango Delta, July 2013

Post by iNdlovu »

This is always an interesting time for me for a couple of reasons.
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Worm always gets the group together to introduce himself and his merry band of polers. He then proceeds to tell everyone what they can expect out there and it is a hoot watching each person's face change expression from a look of happy excitement and then a few doubts start creeping in. He then goes on to lecture everyone on what they mustn't do whilst in the Mokoros....more doubts.


Then he instructs everyone to stand back and allow the polers to get to work. The conversation amongst the expedition members is suddenly not so carefree and boisterous. The Polers pack the luggage into the mokoros, making sure weight and balance is taken care of.

Now comes the best part. Each poler signals two members to climb into the mokoro, pointing out where he should sit. Suddenly, this is not a very good idea, but the truck has already left so no backing out now. If I haven't said it before, here it comes. Who ever invented the Mokoro was a the master of torture. You sit flat on your bum in the bottom of the thing with your legs stretched out flat in front of you or bunched up behind the person in front. In an attempt to get a little comfort you lean your lower back against your kit bag or sleeping bag. Good so far? The sun beats down mercilessly and reflects off the water having the potential of burning you to a crisp and within 10 minutes of travel, the back starts to niggle and the bum starts to go numb and get wet from a small leak somewhere. In addition to all of this, they are about as stable as ball of mercury, a racing Kayak is like a platform compared to these things.
On getting the go ahead to climb aboard, expressions go to almost panic once the individual realizes that he could easily capsize the thing and get eaten by hippos and crocs.

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The polers take a moment to shift people forward or back to get the balance right again and once all members are terrified but sitting we give the thumbs up to depart
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I know I've said it before, but this is one of my favorite places on this planet. For the first 10 minutes or so everybody is so engrossed with trying to stop the Mokoro from wobbling that every muscle in their body is tense and they have no idea what is going on around them. Heading up a narrow channel, the flotilla is closely bunched and I listen to a lot of tongue clicking from the polers which tells me that the people are not working together, but I know that this place will get them right in no time at all.

All around is crystal clear water, reflecting the blue sky's magnificence, seemingly impenetrable reed beds standing 15 feet high. The most delicate pastel colored water lilies abound and the air is filled with nothing. Almost silent bird chirps can be heard if one concentrates, but the overall silence is overpowering. Suddenly the call of the Fish Eagle echoes through the air, this the avian king of the Delta and this first call is answered from many vantage points and islands, it becomes a chorus. The Mokoro glides effortlessly, only the sound of the odd small splash as the pole dips beneath the surface and the faint gurgle of the water as it streams along the hull. This is what saves you, without even being conscious of it your heartbeat slows, your muscles relax and you become aware. There is a flowing out of tension, cares, and you focus on your surroundings, the here and now. The terror that showed on you face turns to a contented daydream.
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We continue on our journey, but this has now become a place of wonder for all. We are surrounded by birdlife from the small Reed Warbler, through Jacanas, Crakes, Herons, Darters, Comorants, Saddle billed storks, open billed storks, maribou storks whilst overhead the sky is busy with marsh harriers, kestrels, fish eagles, bateleurs sailing on outspread wings.
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Worm is not a task master and as soon as he sees people wriggling to get more comfortable, he calls a halt on a nearby island to stretch legs and sore backs, a short walk to the channel on the other side to catch a glimpse of Red Letchwe, zebra and giraffe.
It is easy going and time passes, the only indication being the angle of the sun, every twist and turn of the channel brings a new vista, a new sighting, a photographers dream. The polers continuously point out birds and trees in a whisper, giving you so much detail on each, no need for books with these guys, they have lived here their entire lives and even know some of the individual animals by name.

By early afternoon Worm starts scanning islands for a probable camp site and on crossing a large lagoon we find one that we can make our home. The mokoros swish as the touch the short beach and everyone clambers out, stretching and talking quietly. Worm and one of his polers head into the tree line to clean an area for us under beautiful shady trees whilst we offload the kit, waiting to be given the go ahead to set up camp. A good time to sort out who's stuff is who's.
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We get the go ahead and within 30 minutes, tents are up, mattresses inflated and we settle in to check on how our paptsakke have weathered the trip.
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Munching on sticks of biltong as the stories of the journey go around


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Mel
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Re: Central Kalahari & Okavango Delta, July 2013

Post by Mel »

Okay - the first part when you talk about the travelling in the mokoros it sounds like
anti-advertising for them. Reading only that, I would never embark on one. :twisted:

But despite the strain it puts on obviously every muscle in your body,
it seems quite an adventure as well. Particularly, with all the birdies around O\/

How long are the intervals that you usually spend in the mokoro before going ashore
to relax a littlen? And how long is the trip approx. in total until you put up your camp?
(Still - no cold beer is a real downer :twisted: )


God put me on earth to accomplish a certain amount of things. Right now I'm so far behind that I'll never die.
iNdlovu
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Re: Central Kalahari & Okavango Delta, July 2013

Post by iNdlovu »

No space for beer yet mel. It depends on how everyone holds up as to how long you go, but normally we travel for 45 minutes to an hour between stops. If necessary we shorten that. The point is you do what you want, no deadlines, no agendas, no destination. On this trip we travelled until about 14:30 up stream

The picture I paint about Mokoro travel is real for the first timer, having said that, every single person in the group completely chilled out within 15 minutes and not one person ever mentioned the word comfort. The delta is too magical to even feel those sensations after a short while.


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